Day's end: Muir Trail Ranch
Day's miles: 14.4 miles
Total trip miles: 106.5 miles (triple digits!!)
Today we woke up bright and early determined to get a lot of miles under our belts in order to make it to Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) in time to pick up our re-supply buckets (their re-supply area would close at 5pm). While the sun was still working its way through the trees, we passed another hiking couple going our direction and found they were also hiking the JMT. I was a little surprised to hear this because their packs were so mismatched in terms of size. Hers was so tiny - almost daypack sized, and his pack was just so huge and had lots of extra stuff strapped to the outside. Clearly, she had taken tips from the father/son llama team, and had found her own pack animal... could I do this with Aaron? It would be nice, but I highly doubt it. Besides, if I only carried a tiny daypack that would be cheating, right?
Early morning river crossings at Bear Creek.
Hiking through a pretty meadow on our way past the Rose Lake Trail.
I had to stop and take a picture - wouldn't you?
As we continued on with the day, we crossed a few rivers, passed beautiful Marie Lake (one of my favorites) and gradually wound our way up Selden Pass where we officially passed the 100 mile mark on the trail. On our way down the other side of Selden Pass, we passed a few larger groups of weekend backpackers, as well as Sallie Keyes Lakes. On our way past Sallie Keyes Lakes, we heard a voice just off the trail that chirped, "Hey! You want an oreo?"
Are you kidding me?!
I would kill for an oreo!
We stopped to chat with the oreo people who were day hiking from MTR. They raved about the food, and told us that stopping there is a must. We explained how we're playing that stop by ear because of our new schedule that we should probably stick to so we can finish by September 11th.
Hiking up towards Selden Pass.
Passing Marie Lake as we continued our hike up Selden Pass. Thus far, this lake was one of my favorites.
One of the Sallie Keyes Lakes on the other side of Selden Pass.
We continued down the trail a few more hours, and then who do we find taking a break on the side of the trail? Rob! It was really great to see him again considering we thought we weren't going to see any of our hiking friends from Red's Meadow probably ever again. We continued trekking downhill together toward MTR and chatted about the beautiful views, what we hoped was in our re-supply buckets (one was a mystery bucket being sent from my parents), and our purposed hiking schedule from here on out. When we got to the cut-off trail for MTR, Rob decided he was going to continue on down the trail a little further (he was eager to get to Evolution Valley), and we scurried down one of the steepest trails we'd come to yet until we reached a fenced-in area for horses and a sign that read, "Backpackers! Ring the bell!"
Looking down about 2,000 feet toward Shooting Star Meadow where MTR is located.
Some nice wildflowers along the way.
... and another deer.
Tired as we were (this was the most miles covered yet in one day on this trip), we found the strength to walk inside the gate and looked up toward the dry erase board that held information about the ranch. We read:
"Vacancies!! $140 per person!
Hot and warm springs, laundry, showers, tent cabin, internet, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included!"
Tonight's menu:
Fettucine with herbs and vegetables
Rattatouile
Prime Rib
Polenta
Fresh cobbler and ice cream for dessert
SOLD!!
Before even opening our re-supply buckets and my parents mystery bucket, we found the person running the ranch and grabbed ourselves one of the last tent-cabins. We heard that people have to make reservations months in advance to stay at MTR, so we considered ourselves very lucky to find a place to stay here.
*Side Note* If there are vacancies at MTR and you choose not to stay there, shame on you. As a backpacker you are allowed to only collect your re-supply bucket, use an outdoor patio table to sort through your things, and refill your water bottles with fresh spring water. That's it. You can not use their bathrooms, walk around the premises, use the internet or even think about using the hot and warm springs, and you certainly won't be passing "Go" and collecting your $200.After I paid the lady for our overnight stay (this was another birthday present to Aaron whose birthday was in 4 days), she let us drop our packs and began her quick tour around the premises. But first, a quick stop to the kitchen to see (and smell) what they were cooking for dinner and to get us both a tall glass of lemonade to take with us on our tour (luxury!). We were shown where the hot and warm natural hot springs were located (available 24/7), taken past the lodge/hang out area (complete with fireplace, couches, and books), told about the internet and meal times, and walked around the horse corrals, the laundry machines and the beautiful, newly constructed outdoor showers, before making our way to our tent-cabin. Besides the fact that the door was a sheet, this place was heaven! There was a bed with sheets, a quilt, and pillows (oh, how I had craved pillows!), a bookshelf for our things, a floor rug and a lamp. After sleeping in a tent on the ground with no real pillow and eating dinner and crawling inside the tent before the sun even goes down for 11 days, this just seemed like the most luxurious place on the face of the planet - what a good idea to stay here!
We made our way back to the stone building that housed the re-supply buckets and picked up our two buckets and my parents' mystery bucket. Upon taking my claim check to get our re-supply buckets, the little lady working there said, "Oooh, so your Rose." I know that I tend to call places too many times to set things up, and I'm guessing that my Mom had done the same thing as well - didn't care! We were already beyond happy with our new digs and our fresh lemonade! We took our three buckets outside and first opened the bucket from my parents to see what kinds of goodies they had sent us.
Oh.
My.
God.
This was simply the greatest day/moment on the trail so far. After opening the bucket, we were greeted by a large "happy birthday" sign on top... followed by birthday napkins, birthday plates, birthday cups, birthday poppers and noise makers, glow bracelets, a "Celebrate" flashing pin, a lovely birthday card, two magazines, shampoo, conditioner, face wash and body wash, spreadable smoked gouda cheese and fancy table crackers, one very large smoked summer sausage (Hallelujah!), Hobnobs, extra fluffy hiking socks, extra self-grip stretchy tape for our feet and ankles, a full roll of blister tape, one bottle of Pinot Noir, and a 6 pack of Guinness! Can life get any better than this?? I seriously doubt it.
We were both so blown away by the contents of The Birthday Bucket, and I happily told everyone that it was Aaron's birthday. Everyone who worked at the ranch (and most of the guests too) knew that it was his birthday by the end of the night, and many of them expressed how very impressed they were by this epic Birthday Bucket.
Before making our way to dinner, we scrambled to try out the outdoor showers. Don't let the "outdoor" part of the outdoor showers scare you. These were newly constructed with benches and shelves for your things, and hooks for your towels and clothes, and they also came with no roof. Washing the dirt and grime off your body, while drinking wine and looking up to see the tallest pine trees and noisy Stellar Jays just has to be one of life's simple pleasures.
After the excitement of The Birthday Bucket and taking one of the best showers on the trail, we wandered back toward the kitchen area to relax a little before dinner was served. While there, the cook stuck her head out of the kitchen and said, "Psst! Hey, you've been hiking quite a distance, haven't you?"
"Why yes we have, about a 100 miles."
"That's what I thought. Here, try some of this. It's on tonight's dinner menu."
She slipped us both a sliver of the prime rib, and I can tell you sure for certain, I don't think I've ever been so excited for the taste of a food ever. This was phenomenal. And not just because all we've had to eat for dinner for 10 days was re-hydrated meals (besides a few cheeseburgers here and there). This was just simply sublime.
After getting a good pre-dinner buzz going, we made our way to the dinner room where we sat with three fun guy hiking friends and (wouldn't you know it) the oreo people! The dinner was served family/buffet style and we both made sure to load up our plates high with both dinner and dessert. The dinner conversation was lovely (probably aided by the wine and beer on our behalf), and during dinner we learned that sitting in the hot springs was an absolute must while we were here.
Full with delicious food, and drunk on beer, wine and fabulous conversation we made our way with our magazines to the hot springs and relaxed for a good long while before heading off to sleep on a bed with real sheets and real pillows... this is the life.
You can enlarge any of these pictures by clicking on them.
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